India Archives - Endless Roads Travel

Mumbai is a Marvelous and Densely Populated Maharashtra Metropolis

Crossing the Street in Mumbai with. a Thousand Other People

Mumbai is the largest city in India, with close to 21 million people in the metro area it makes it one of the most populated cities in the world. Formerly Bombay; the name was changed to Mumbai in 1995. The city has the countries biggest film scene (Bollywood) and is the leading financial center in India as well. I loved exploring this beautiful old city in the limited time I had here. I loved the architecture that changed so much with the times from the Victorian buildings built at the end of the 19th century to the Art Deco buildings from the early 20th century. I was there during the monsoon season but luckily the rain only happened at night keeping things much cooler and more manageable than it was in Delhi and Agra in the north. I stayed in the Colaba area of South Mumbai, which is a great location close to all the historic sites.

The first place I went, which was only a 15 minute walk from my hotel was Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus. Also known as the Victoria Terminus, this building is not only an incredible blend of Victorian, Hindu and Islamic styles but it’s an enormous railway station. This was a beautiful place to visit. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site that draws thousands of tourists and travelers alike on a daily basis.

Sadly the Victoria Terminus was also one of the 12 sites chosen by the terrorists in the 2008 Mumbai attacks. Of the ten terrorists, they were only able to capture one of the them alive and this is where they caught him.

The next place I went was the Gateway of India. This iconic archway is not only a symbol of Mumbai but also a national symbol of India. It was built to commemorate the visit of King George V in 1911 but wasn’t completed until 1924. Today it’s a favorite place for locals to hang out and plenty of people trying to take photos for tourists, for a small fee of course.

The Gateway of India faces outward towards the Bay of Mumbai. This is also the place where you can catch a ferry for a cruise around the bay or to Elephanta Island. I chose to go to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the latter.

The ferry ride to Elephanta Island takes about 60 minutes and It leaves from both the island and the mainland once an hour despite what some eager hustlers might try to tell you.

Elephanta Island, also known as Gharapuri contains incredible rock cut temples found in a labyrinth of caves on the island created around 450 AD. The main temple is dedicated to a three faced Shiva. Shiva is the destroyer, creator and preserver of the Universe.

This was an incredibly beautiful site to explore but the short hike up to the caves was pretty miserable in the extreme humidity and heat. I’d recommend not doing this in the Summer.

This time on the hike back down the steps and through all the souvenir stalls there were monkeys everywhere. They put a blue tarp over the steps to block the hot sun which was an excellent move on this insanely hot/humid day.

After the one hour ferry ride back to the Gateway of India I decided I had to check out the iconic Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. This hotel is a luxury hotel that sits next to the Gateway of India and has housed everyone from John Lennon to Barack Obama.

Architecturally it was designed at the turn of the 20th century so it has a beautiful Victorian design. This gorgeous building has become an iconic landmark in Mumbai. Unfortunately it was one of the main sites chosen by the terrorists in the 2008 Mumbai attacks. Earlier this year, a movie was released called “Hotel Mumbai’ that tells the story of the courageous crew that works at the hotel who’s quick thinking on their feet managed to save the lives of dozens of guests from the attackers.

Victorian Gothic Architecture of the Bombay High Court

The next place I went was Oval Maidan, the perfect place to enjoy the third UNESCO World Heritage site of Mumbai called “Victorian Gothic and Art Deco Ensembles of Mumbai”. The Oval Maidan is a large open field used for recreation such as cricket and football, The other interesting thing about it is you clearly see two different eras of Mumbai from here. One side of the street is all Victorian Gothic architecture from the turn of the 20th century and the other side is all Art Deco from the 1930’s.

Rajabal Clock Tower AKA the Big Ben of Mumbai

It was really cool to be able to see two distinct periods of time while standing in the same place and imagining what life must have been like when these buildings were constructed.

The last place I visited was the Haji Ali Dargah Mosque and Tomb found on a little Islet of South Mumbai. This mosque is dedicated to Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari, a wealthy Sufi merchant from Uzbekistan, it was built in 1431 in his memory.

I really enjoyed my time in Mumbai. I was feeling a little disappointed in my first visit to India from the weather to the chaos that is Delhi. It was an often difficult but also rewarding trip. I’m glad I made sure to visit Mumbai, it’s an incredible city I’m certain I will return to at some point.

Agra is Worth the Quick Trip from Delhi.

India

Agra is a city about 200 kilometers east of India’s national capital, Delhi. It’s one of the most populous cities in Uttar Pradesh and was once the capital of the Mughal Empire. It is a major tourist attraction, not just because of the incredible Agra Fort but it is also the home of the famed Taj Mahal. Both sites have been designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites but the Taj is also considered one of the New 7 Wonders of the World.

I took the two hour fast train from New Delhi Railway Station at dawn and arrived in Agra at 8:00 am. It was a very similar experience to Delhi with Tuk-Tuk drivers immediately trying to take me somewhere I didn’t want to go. Luckily Uber works here too. I stayed at a place called Hotel Taj Resorts, that was actually really nice and quite affordable around 30 USD per night. The hotel was located in the East Gate area of the Taj Mahal, so first thing I did after a much needed nap was walk to the Taj!

The Taj Mahal Gate itself is pretty magnificent to behold and through the arch way you can see the iconic mausoleum. Surrounding it on three sides are red sandstone walls built for defense and inside the complex are several outlying buildings which are pretty incredible feats of Mughal architecture. The outlying mausoleums house several of Shah Jahan’s wives and his favorite servant.

The outlying building to the west of the Taj is a mosque and another one mirrors its directly to the east. They believe the building to the east was made purely for architectural balance and may have been used as a guest house.

The Outlying Western Building That is a Mosque

The Taj Mahal means “Crown of the Palaces,” and is a mausoleum that contains Shah Jahan’s favorite wife Mumtaz Mahal. It is widely considered one of the most beautiful buildings ever created. This is a place I’ve wanted to see for quite some time and I wasn’t disappointed!

Being July the weather was pretty much unbearable in terms of heat and humidity but with it being the low season for tourism, I was able to enjoy the Taj with only a hundred or so other people rather than thousands. It was incredible.

A Mother and her Daughter Enjoy the Taj Mahal

After the Taj the next place I went was Agra Fort, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. This was the main residence of the Mughal dynasty until they moved the capital to Delhi in 1638.

The fort can be better described as a walled city. There are quite a few buildings to see inside, some of them were closed for renovations.

I’ve been to a lot of forts around the world but this is definitely a must see if you are in Agra, it’s absolutely beautiful.

After my visit of the Taj Mahal and Agra Fort it was time to return to my hotel and get some much needed rest. Being out all day in the sun during India’s hottest months can really take it out of you. Plus I had a flight to catch the next day to Mumbai…

A Look Inside Delhi, India’s Vibrant Chaotic Capital

India

Delhi has been continuously inhabited since the 6th century BCE. That’s a lot of history, and you see it in all the sights that are littered throughout the city. It has a population of over 11 million people, and you definitely see that too. This is the capital of India and India’s second largest city, after Mumbai. The city is divided into two main parts, Old and New Delhi. Both are worth exploring and contrast each other perfectly. Old Delhi is very chaotic with Tuk-Tuk and rickshaw drivers constantly honking and trying to give you a ride to wherever they see fit. New Delhi is slightly less chaotic and more structured, they both have countless monuments and many historic sites to visit.

My journey in India began at Indira Ghandi International Airport. I decided to take the train into town, and the train from the airport was actually quite nice. Only 4 stops and about 22 minutes later I was at the New Delhi Metro Station across the street from the New Delhi Railway Station. This was exactly where I wanted to be because my hotel was only about 1/4 of a km from there I just wanted to walk. I was immediately approached by Tuk-Tuk drivers offering to take me to my hotel, I kept saying no, I just want to walk but these guys don’t take no for an answer. One of them tried to tell me they knew of a better hotel to take me to, another one tried to tell me that due to protests of an upcoming election I needed a special permit to travel to the part of town my hotel was in. None of this was true. I kept trying to use the GPS on my phone but every time Id take it out someone would get really pushy and tell me that I’d better be careful or someone would steal my phone. I eventually found the correct route to walk and a man stopped me in plain clothes claiming to be a police officer saying that I would have to stop and turn around without the proper permit. When I asked to see his ID it looked like a fake ID from the 90’s that said noting about police, I knew he was trying to scam me. At this point it was just me, this phony police man, and 5 Tuk-Tuk drivers all trying to take me to some hotel in New Delhi they probably got a cut from when my hotel I had a reservation at was in Old Delhi. I told them I’d call my hotel and see what they had to say about all this special permit business. The hotel told me that all these men were indeed full of shit and not to listen to any of them, so I said my peace and carried on without stopping for anyone else.

The next day I was ready to see some of the sights. I realized they had Uber in India and this was great because there’s no discussion or possibility for the driver to scam you and it’s super cheap! I pretty much took Uber all over the city. I should also mention that against my better judgement and the advice of others, my first visit to India was in July. This is near the end of the monsoon season but it’s still pretty overcast and rainy. The worst part is the heat and humidity. Ugh, it was no joke, it was truly brutal. First place I went was Jama Masjid. The Jama Mosque is one of the largest mosques in India and it’s pretty incredible. It was built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in 1656. We at Endless Roads Travel do love Islamic architecture and this mosque is definitely up there with some of the beautiful mosques you can find in Esfahan (Iran), or Samarkand (Uzbekistan).

The next place I went was the Chandni Chowk area of Old Delhi. This is a large shopping area selling everything you can imagine. It’s very busy and one of the oldest markets in Old Delhi. It’s a great place to walk around and get lost in. Chandni Chowk is also very close to Red Fort, the next place I stopped at.

Red Fort was incredible to see. This was the home of the emperors of the Mughal dynasty for over 200 years. The Fort was built by the 5th Mughal emperor Shah Jahan as his place for the capital Shahjahanabad. This is the same emperor that was responsible for Jama Masjid and many more incredible buildings scattered around India. It’s considered to represent the pen-ultimate of Mughal creativity. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2017.

The Red Fort complex was designed by Ustad Ahmad Lahouri, the same architect that designed the Taj Mahal. It was commissioned in 1638 after the emperor decided to shift his capital from Agra to Delhi.

Shah Jahan did not live out his last days here, his disloyal son imprisoned him in Agra Fort for the last 10 years of his life. In 1857 the British took over the fort and forced the last Mughal Emperor into exile in Burma (Myanmar). They destroyed most of the original buildings and gardens replacing them with barracks for the colonial army.

The next place I went was the Ghandi Smitri and Mahatma Ghandi Memorial. This is a beautiful museum of the former residence of Mahatma Ghandi and place of his unfortunate assassination in 1948. You can stroll through the gardens where he spent so much of his time and also see the room he stayed in left exactly as how he kept it. The man’s legacy is archived in stories and photographs throughout the museum. He was called the “Father of the Nation.”

A short walk away is the Raj Ghat, a beautiful park that has the spot where he was cremated.

By this point I had spent the last 5 hours or so completely drenched in sweat and damn near suffering from heat stroke. It was time to go back to my hotel to take a shower. I wasn’t done yet though.

The next place I went was Humayun’s Tomb. This gorgeous mausoleum of white marble and sandstone was originally designed as a prototype to the Taj Mahal. It’s quite a nice mix of Persian and Mughal design. It was built in the mid 16th century as a memorial to Humayun’s widow but also contains the tomb of Isa Khan, the architect of the Taj Mahal. This is another one of Delhi’s beautiful UNESCO World Heritage sites.

The surrounding garden’s also contain the tomb of the emperor’s favorite barber. Although it’s hard to pick and choose with so many historic sites, this is definitely a place worth checking out when visiting Delhi.

The next place I went was Qutub Minar. This is India’s tallest minaret, it was built in the 12th century. The minaret is ringed with intricately carved verses of the Koran. It’s made out of sandstone, marble and red sandstone. It’s 5 stories and 70 meter high. This minaret is incredible! Apparently enough for UNESCO to make it a World Heritage Site.

The last place I went before returning to my hotel was the iconic India Gate. This incredible stone arch was built in memorial to Indian soldiers killed in World War I. An eternal flame burns beneath the arch and the walls are inscribed with the 90,000 soldiers who died in the war. The night I was there they had the colors of the Indian flag shining on the arch and street was full of people.

Although the weather was way too hot and humid for me and I may have lost my patience a few times with pushy Tuk-Tuk drivers and would be guides, I still had an interesting experience in Delhi. In hindsight I may have to visit again. This was the end of my visit in Delhi, I had a train to catch at 6:00 am to Agra, to see the Taj Mahal. India was country 102/197.

India

Enjoy this blog? Please spread the word :)